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Articles/Step By Steps

Nail Advantage Gel - Clear and Coloured


Nail Advantage Gel System.

This gel system has been manufactured to provide the Technician with 'ease of application' and the Client with a result that they will be more than happy with.

We are proud to offer this range which is manufactured for us in Australia. The presentation of the pots is superb, they do not leak when tipped over and we have the wonderful support of an Australian Chemist behind the product. The range can be cured using 6W or 9W globes (our instructions are based on 9W, so please increase the curing time to 3 minutes for 6W).

This system works on the basis of a Clear Builder gel for structuring the nail and an Ultra Gloss finishing gel which is non-yellowing and provides a permanent high shine finish.

The colours in the range have been manufactured at our request and we believe they represent a good variety of choices. The range can be increased and if you believe we can improve the selection, then please forward us a sample of your favourite colour for us to assess. The colours we have chosen are complimented by very similar polish colours from the Joss range of polishes.

I have briefly covered application of the coloured gel, but there is so much more you can do!! Try applying a glitter gel over a standard colour, swirl colours together for a marbelled effect, embed nail art etc etc - Have fun and experiment!!

As with most enhancement systems, the standard procedures of sanitation and preparation of the nail plate are imperative to produce a high quality result. Although we have tested and applied this product without applying primer, it is still my belief that the application of primer improves adhesion and reduces the risk of nail plate disorders. (Remember to prime the natural nail only.)

The following steps are assuming that tips have been applied if required and that the nail plate is prepped and primed.

Clear Application:

Apply a very thin coat of Bonder in a circular motion over the entire nail. Snap cure for 30 seconds.

Building: 'Dribble' a small amount of Builder gel across the stress area and allow to self-level. If needed, ask the client to turn their hand over so that gravity can pull down the gel. Turn hand back over and wipe any excess from nail walls and cure for 2 minutes. Then proceed to apply the gel to the entire nail, again turning the hand over if required and removing any excess. Cure for 2 minutes. Gel can be placed again on any area of the nail if the shape indicates that it still requires 'building'. When you are satisfied with the overall shape, remove any sticky residue with gel wipe and proceed to buff and define the enhancement.

Finishing: When the desired shape has been achieved, use a strong nail brush to remove any dust residue. (If at this stage if you feel you may have inadvertently contaminated the enhancement with oil - be it either from you finger pads, or using a file which may have been in contact with cuticle oil etc, then I would suggest wiping the nails down with either gel wipe or prep again. Oil and gels just do not mix. If you apply gel to a surface with any oil present, it will separate like 'scrambled eggs' or 'mini craters'.) Apply the Ultra Gloss finishing gel to each nail, making sure to seal in the free edge. Cure this final coat for 3 minutes then remove any remaining residue with gel wipe. If you feel the need, you may use a fine natural nail file such as a 'Black Beauty' to file gently down the side walls to remove any residual gel that may have cured. Finish by asking your client to wash their hands, then apply cuticle oil or hand cream if desired. If you wish to paint a polish you may do so and will not require the use of a base coat.

Coloured Application:

My favourite application is that of coloured gel toe nails and this is how I do it:

Sanitise the feet, push back the cuticles, file the nails to shape, then use either a white block or 180 grit file to etch and smooth the nail surface. Of course I then apply nail prep dehydrator and primer.

Fun part! Using the coloured gel like a nail polish, I apply one thin coat to the entire nail and remove any excess on the surrounding skin with an orange wood stick. Cure for 2 minutes and without wiping in between, I then repeat the application of a second, thin coat. This brings out the true colour of the gel.

If the client is adventurous, I will then apply rhinestones etc to decorate. I seal this in with my finishing coat of either Ultra Gloss or Duragloss.

- When using coloured gels, you MUST always stir the pot of colour with an orange wood stick to mix up the true colour. Like a tin of paint, coloured gel settles and your results will be far from impressive if the colour is not consistent.

- Ultra Gloss or Duragloss? Ultra Gloss is stronger and thicker and increases the strength of the enhancement. Duragloss is a thin gel sealer which does not leave a tacky residue. It is an excellent sealer over acrylic (which already has strength) and as most toe nails are not long or require added strength, Duragloss is a suitable finish.

- Permanent French: Apply the white gel to the free edge area with two thin applications and then apply the clear builder to the back zones of the nail, bringing down over the white. Finish with Ultra Gloss for added strength.

- Twinkle Toes: Apply Clear Builder or chosen colour over the entire nail. Then place diamantes in any design be it along the French line or over the entire nail. Seal in with Ultra Gloss or Duragloss. Examine carefully! You may need to apply a second top coat to ensure the diamantes are properly secured.

- Removal: Gel must be buffed off to remove. I have tried many solutions which are supposed to dissolve gel, but I haven't yet found any to be effective. As gel is a softer enhancement, it is easy to buff away. Just be careful not to be too vigorous with your filing - you dont want to damage the natural nail!

- OOPS! Problems?

Small craters or separation: the nail was somehow contaminated with oil.

Little dots: when applying (before curing) if you see little dots, it usually means one of two things: either you do not have enough product applied or there is dust or fibres on the nail plate.

Lumpy when applying: either the gel was not mixed sufficiently prior to use or the coat you are applying this one over was not cured for long enough. Check the globes in your UV lamp and ensure client is positioned correctly within the lamp.

Dont panic, the product can be lightly buffed to remove imperfections and reapplied. Use lint-free wipes and keep your work area clean when applying gel.

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